Why this cookbook author sees making stew as an act of resistance
For Laila El-Haddad, Eid-al-Fitr calls for sumagiyya.
In Gaza, where El-Haddad spent summers growing up, the tangy lamb stew with sumac, chard and chickpeas is synonymous with joyous occasions, especially the three-day Muslim holiday that breaks the month-long fasting period of Ramadan. The dish was her aunt’s specialty, and El-Haddad — who now lives in Maryland with her husband and four children — has fond memories of eating bowlfuls during family celebrations.
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